“It’s inspired by kinetic art,” Karl Lagerfeld of this show that was multilayered conceptually—and literally. This meant not only layered garments—boxy, tweedy day suits worn with broad hip-slung belts and with another band of suede underskirt showing several inches below the skirt hem, matched to the second-skin “stocking” boots (literally held up with old-fashioned garter belts)—or thickly beaded miniskirts worn over ankle-length dresses. It also spoke to the subtle layering of fabrics, translucent tulle and organza, and embroideries of delicate tiny beads—like drifts of driving rain—that created mesmerizing optical illusions.
That Chanel workmanship was revealed on closer inspection of those densely textured tweeds that turned out to be not woven, but instead were tour de force embroideries of shreds of chiffon, wool, and metallic filaments. Extraordinary gleaming beadwork also shimmered from the interior of the pencil skirts’ kick pleats in back, and from the “split” shoulder seams, designed to create the illusion of a jacket that had been torn apart—as poetic as ore in a mother lode, or sunlight through clouds.
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Natalia Vodianova
Rihanna
Kirstin Stewart
Vanessa Paradis
Mila Jovovich
Clemence Poesy
Rose Byrne
Alexa Chung
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