The fall collection of Valentino’s younger line, Red Valentino, was presented at a showroom appointment on Tuesday. Looking to the Brothers Grimm's “Hansel and Gretel” for inspiration, creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli created a lineup full of youthful charm and whimsical, folkloric elements from the story’s native Germany. Gretel was the muse for several looks, including a knit corset with a peplum that was teamed with a full skirt reminiscent of a dirndl, and Hansel provided design cues for the hunting jackets in men’s wear-influenced plaids and houndstooth. The floral embroideries on knit dresses added a sweet and innocent touch. Marzipan inspired the bold florals on a capelet, and a gingerbread house scene was referenced on cameo-printed skirts.
* La Belle Vie Favorite*
*La Belle Vie Favorite*
This was the standout show of the week; workmanship to swoon and sigh over, and clothes you actually want - scratch that, would love - to wear. Their embroidery and crystal beading is so subtly incorporated into the layers of tulle and chiffon that they become utterly intrinsic to the design. How do they do it? How do these two communicate a shared and sometimes complementary aesthetic with each other and with the seamstresses in Rome. How do they manage to reproduce wrought-iron on a dress without making it look, in every sense, hard work? The very first dress that - a graceful, gauzy pale taupe bell with a red tracery of curlicues and rococo squiggles - did just that. Later on, the wrought iron turned into a cobwebby-sheer cloak.
Further enquiry into their approach doesn't necessarily get you far. Their English is limited, so too my Italian. There's a lot of flower - and flowery - talk. For once, it's appropriate "We like to make magic" says Pierpaolo. Guess what? They did. For a closer look check out the full video of the show here.
